Bolsena to Montefiascone 12/9/17

12/9/17 Tuesday
Day 39

Bolsena- Montefiascone 18 km

Blue sky again. 24 deg

There's a pilgrim hunched solemnly in prayer in the Chiesa.
I begin on the path which initially leads along the outskirts of the town providing beautiful views of Lake Bolsena.
I have severe leg pain, make many stops for recovery but also for enjoyment. I pass only two pilgrims today. No roadhouses.

Bliss and Gratitude.

An absolute beautiful walk through a mystical forest with ancient oaks and miniature cyclamen. I listen to Deuter's 'Valley of the Gods' and I'm sure I can sense the spirit of the Etruscan people who dwelt here in 15 BC. The tracks are smooth. I sit beside a waterfall among mossy rocks.

Once through of the forest, the landscape opens out to olive groves and grapevines.
The Chiesa di San Flaviano is steeped in antiquity; frescoes depict slain babies, tortured saints and sword-wielding clergymen.

An easy walk up some hills before an impromptu 'tour' of the town in an effort to find my chosen accommodation as suggested by Cicerone: The Spiritual Centre of St Lucia which I discover is now operating as a seminary only. More touring until I eventually find the Via Garibaldi. At the end of the road is the indistinguishable entry to the Monasterio San Pietro.
I'm ushered in by a breathless, corpulent nun fluttering about in her robes. She is perplexed I speak neither Italian nor French and is unimpressed by my offer of German. Two other guests are present and as she has no change, I pay an extra 5 Euro for a single room.

A lonely dinner in a bar devoid of food but with a surfeit of space and staff.

The nuns are singing lonely vespers.


15+5 Accommodation San Pietro
13 Dinner: panini and more bread, wine Est, Est, Est









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