Sutri to Campagnano di Roma 16/9/17

16/9/17 Saturday
Day 43

Sutri- Campagnano di Roma 24+ km

Cloudy, still warm, no rain

I begin by taking the wrong way out of Sutri, so return and then walk deep into a municipal park where the remains of the ancient town are to be found. The day is suitably gloomy as I creep through ancient tombs and living quarters (and somehow I miss the amphitheatre).
I take a road out of the town which is marked but in conflict with Cicerone's directions, and because it is so frantically busy with traffic, I assume I must be on the wrong route, so I retrace my steps only to find that narrow, menacing road littered with refuse is indeed the road I must take.

There follows an emotional melt-down: I'm fed-up with ignorant drivers, sick of neglected animals, frustrated with piles of rubbish and shitty signage.

Walk on past hazelnut trees, untidy fields, a golf course and two pilgrims in a hurry.
I encounter two sheepdogs which I am sure are not lunging at me in play fight mood; again my walking pole is used in defense.
I had considered staying at Monterosi but as I pass through the dreary place, am very motivated to continue.

I am sweaty, tired and thirsty and have seen nothing pleasant.
Monte Gelato and the Gelato Falls provide some reprieve for my low mood.
The Regionale Park is endless walking through weeds and pollution.

I arrive at my destination; have again miscalculated my time estimation by two hours. I incidentally meet up with Pilgrim-Denmark who saves the day by finding a cute Ostello with resident tomato plants and clucking hens. My friend cooks the best meal for the two of us; we are the only guests.

The Italian drivers really are not so bad, I will pat and comfort every sick and ailing animal I meet, the rubbish will be collected eventually and the signs- well, they're correct every time.

20 Accommodation
9 Supplies for dinner








Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Rome 19/9/17

Image
19/9/17 Tuesday Day 46 To Rome 20 km Sun and clouds 0630 Departure from the convent. Find our way to Monte Mario using Sloways. The first vista towards the Vatican is exhilarating and calls for a Quiet Moment. The sun is rising over the city. The park itself is unmaintained: graffiti, weeds, damaged paths and signs. We step on, feeling a lightness of spirit as we reach St Peter's Square. Of course I feel triumphant; this is Rome. I am here. I have walked a very long way-mostly alone. I am awash with a feeling of warmth and peace which I recognise simply, as, gratitude. The morning is bathed in a mellow glow as we sit on the ground in the square quite unfazed by the frenetic activity of tourists amassing. We make our way towards the police guard, wishing to collect my reserved ticket to the Papal Audience the next day. I am met with brash rudeness and not allowed to pass through. I then approach the Swiss Guards who shake their heads at th
Read more

Welcome to Left then Right: Via Francigena pilgrimage in Italy. Buon Cammino.

This is about a long walk I took to celebrate the exquisite perfection of being alive.   I have written a simple account of my walk from Switzerland to Rome on the Via Francigena pilgrimage which I traversed July-September 2017. Rather than being a travel blog, it instead describes my feelings and encounters along the way. ‘Left then Right’ may be interpreted as ‘Wrong ‘(way) before ‘Right’ (way) as was the typical course I took due to my directional-dyslexia disorder. Or it may be interpreted as purely putting the Left foot ahead of the Right foot, step by step. Both of these could be considered accurate of my trajectory along the 1100 km which culminated in my arrival in Rome. Walking is the most mindful, often painful, but definitely meaningful, activity I can think of to align body, mind and spirit with the universal forces of humanity and divinity. Buon Cammino Laura. T. Rust
Read more