Aulla to Sarzana to La Spezia 23/8/17

23/8/17 Wednesday
Day 25

Aulla- Sarzana 18 km-> train to La Spezia

31 degrees at 1300

It's the first time I've heard English for a while!
Busy train station at La Spezia where I feel more like a pilgrim than tourist. As I sit with my backpack midst the hum, I feel enlivened, free and immortal.

When I reach Sarzana, it seemed all trains to Manarola are booked out, so I take a room at La Spezia for the night with the plan to train tomorrow.
Extraordinary day: met up with friendly Italians at the Ostello last night; I keep farewelling them only to meet them again! Walked the same way with them today, we ate peaches and figs fresh from the trees, also blackberries and grapes.
During the night there is commotion- a domestic dispute on the street beneath the fourth floor of my room. The cacophony persists for some time and I am amazed there is no vocal intervention from any one of the many people dwelling in this area of the city. I lean out of the window and holler, “Perhaps you can take your argument somewhere else in this bloody city”. The incident comes to a gradual and muffled halt.
Then I hear footsteps coming up the stairs to my floor.
An Italian later tells me the neighbours in the area would be too afraid to intervene for fear of a firearm being used against them.

Big climbs today- best suited to the early mornings on an empty stomach, as was the case today. The first hill-top village was lit up by the rising sun. Roosters crowed and church bells chimed over the hillsides.
Olive trees, grapevines, clucking hens.
At San Stefano? at an unmarked corner there's a bar where the Pope's photo is on the wall and coffee costs 1 Euro.

Huge panoramic view of La Spezia.

I visit the 'sixth' village of the Cinque Terre: Portovenere.
...and there's a man stepping from one foot to the other- the most beautiful antiquated fishing village- and his wife has been inside the shop forever.
He sends her a txt msg and is then brave enough to enter the shop to haul her out.
The world is impatient and yet you put up with it too long Sir.
Passers-by caress garments on racks at the shop-front but won't spend 8 Euro.

I am such a pilgrim. And my 'mountane' friend is too.
I get there and back without problem after getting directions from gothic-looking youths at the bus-stop; they jokingly compete with each other to see who has the best English.
I stand at the front of the bus on my return trip for a flat fee of 5 Euro; I'm thrilled by the three-point turns and roller-coaster antics the bus driver employs.
The lights of passing villages flicker and twinkle on the waterfronts.

La Spezia is brimming with people and diners.

I am incognito.
I love it.

4 Drinks
7 Train to La Spezia and Manarola
60 Albergo Teater accommodation
30 Dinner: fish, salad, noodles, 500ml wine.
0 Bus to Portovenere (was unaware of procedure to purchase ticket off driver for a flat fee)
5 Bus fare return








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