Fiorenzuola to Fidenza 17/8/17

17/8/17 Thursday
Day 19

Fiorenzuola- Fidenza 22 km

Heatwave continues: searing sun, hazy skies

Up at 0600. 25 degrees. I spend the first 15 minutes re-tracing my steps.

The sun rises like a molten orbit dripping colour over the road.

I pass through a large horticultural area of turned fields and harvested crops.
Sunflowers are past their glory: stooped and withered, but still they turn to face the sun.
I walk on alone after the Brazilians pass me at the Abbey of St Colombo which they again, surprisingly, choose not to visit. The abbey was built by French monks in 1152. Today I understand the appeal of such a lifestyle.
A re-supply of drinks and ice cream at a bar which is patronised by local men engaged in passionate conversation.

Italy has well cared-for churches. The Madonna is revered; there are abundant roadside/house shrines (and a large statue of the Madonna in a children's playground) in her honour.

I lunch on an ample supply of avocado, nuts and bread in a cemetery which also provides me with the shade of an aromatic tree and a water tap. From here, the heat on the tarmac is unbearable as I trudge the long and shadeless stretch to Fidenza.

Arrive in Fidenza 1245, find Ostello using GPS but unable to get inside.
Finally, after much shouting directed up at an open window, a guest inside opens the door and allows me early entry.
1630: sitting in a church whose steps lead down into a cool sanctuary. The last day of the heatwave today was intense and severe- may have reached 40 degrees while walking.
Followed the Sloways (well marked) app today which is completely different from Cicerone's guide.
Passed the first donativo stand.
Dinner with Sisi and an Italian pilgrim Alberto The Athlete.

The athlete and I agree to walk together tomorrow.


9 Supplies and fruit
6 Drinks
10 Albergo San Donnino
1.5 Pencil with paper receipt
15 Dinner: 2 courses with beer and wine













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