Left then Right by LTR

15/9/17 Friday Day 42 Vetralla- Sutri via Capranica 24 km Cloudy skies turn to blue, warm Talk at 'breakfast' (packaged bread, tepid coffee) with the Danish pilgrim and a Hungarian woman who is married to an Italian; she explains about corruption and refugee problems in Italy. On the way out of town I stop for breakfast with Danish pilgrim Tilde at a place where cold coffee and hard bread are not on the menu (however rude, impatient service is). Walk out of Vetralla, enter a wide forest, skirt around the perimeter of the forest and re-enter. Some time later I walk for hours over hazelnut acreages. The labour-intensive harvesting of the nuts helps me understand why they are so expensive. After Capranica I re-enter a forest which is very similar to NZ bush except for the construction of railings and bridges which would not comply with NZ safety standards. Fallen and felled trees form a magical canopy. Quietude. Two waterfalls. No pilgrim traffic fr...

14/9/17 Thursday Day 41 Viterbo-Vetralla 17 km Blue sky Breakfast 0630 as arranged by the nuns; needlessly I worried I was late- as is so often the case, the menu consisted of dry and packaged bread and lukewarm coffee. I visit the Pilgrim Quarter of Viterbo: Santa Maria Nuova with the 12 th century outdoor pulpit and the Papal Palace, court and church where seven popes were ordained and excommunications took place. Etruscan foundations bear signatures. One wrong turn before Porta Faul. Three times self defense tactics with walking pole against vicious dogs. Excitedly anticipating the acclaimed Catacomb Christina; the entrance is locked but I see a way in through a smashed panel of glass. I clamber through, inch my way along the ledge overhanging the dark steps down. With trepidation tingling in my spine, I reach the cave at the bottom and lose my nerve to go further- I have forgotten my headlight and looking through the crumbling space at my feet, I can se...

13/9/17 Wednesday Day 40 Montefiascone- Viterbo 18 km Hazy blue skies 21 deg Wake to the sound of singing nuns and chiming church bells. As the sun rises in a hazy sky I walk to the Torre dell Pellegrino and public garden with a view over Lake Bolsena. Follow the ancient Via Cassio (Basulato Romano 154 BC?) which is still in use; no evidence at all of any preservation effort. Views back over Montefiascone with the third largest dome in Italy of the Cattedrale di Santa Margherita. Flat tracks on to Bagnaccio; it is too hot to swim in the hot pools there and they look uninviting to me. Leg pain. On today's walk I eat my entire and meager provision of three brioche. I walk with Happiness- my sole companion. Viterbo is reached earlier than expected though it is a crazy walk at midday through traffic. GPS successfully guides me to the two pilgrim-stops I have selected; the first is closed however, so I traipse to the Instituto Adoratrici Sanque di Cri...

12/9/17 Tuesday Day 39 Bolsena- Montefiascone 18 km Blue sky again. 24 deg There's a pilgrim hunched solemnly in prayer in the Chiesa. I begin on the path which initially leads along the outskirts of the town providing beautiful views of Lake Bolsena. I have severe leg pain, make many stops for recovery but also for enjoyment. I pass only two pilgrims today. No roadhouses. Bliss and Gratitude. An absolute beautiful walk through a mystical forest with ancient oaks and miniature cyclamen. I listen to Deuter's 'Valley of the Gods' and I'm sure I can sense the spirit of the Etruscan people who dwelt here in 15 BC. The tracks are smooth. I sit beside a waterfall among mossy rocks. Once through of the forest, the landscape opens out to olive groves and grapevines. The Chiesa di San Flaviano is steeped in antiquity; frescoes depict slain babies, tortured saints and sword-wielding clergymen. An easy walk up some hills before an impromp...

11/9/17 Monday Bolsena Rest Day I'm offered a second night in the Ostello and when I indicate to the caretaker I will be staying at the hotel, she seems perplexed as to how a pilgrim can possibly afford to upgrade. So, I guiltily make the transition from tramp to tourist and arrive at the hotel in time for a banquet breakfast. I try very hard to conceal my greed and delight. In my hotel room there are soaps and sheets, fragrant towels and a fresh toilet. And most impressive of all: Space and Privacy. Oh the grandeur of the hotel lobby! I exhale and exhale some more. I walk along the lake where only a few people are. The cool, the quiet are so restorative. There are avenues of autumnal trees and mansions standing old and proud behind gated entrances. Along with many German tourists, I marvel at the authentic alleys so well preserved. Walk to the castle. Potted geraniums and pottery for sale. Corpus Christi: A doubting priest who was celebrating mass was ...

10/9/18 Sunday Day 38 Acquapendente-Bolsena 22 km Thunderstorm All pilgrims leave around 0600. In the bleak greyness of the dawn I see a porcupine scuttle across the road. The rain quickly turns torrential; there's purple lightning illuminating the path and roaring thunder. I shelter several times (under a tree or under a forgotten house) as the rain turns the path into rivulets of flowing mud. I walk 12 km to the first bar where I am met by the Brazilians, Russian pastor, Brits, the Italian and the Ex-pat. There's food, warmth and a reprieve from the storm. As there's no buy-in on my suggestion to jump in a taxi, I decide to continue on the remaining 10 km walk with Wizard-pastor, Ex-pat and the Italian; the others wait the storm out for the day and night. Somewhere along that treacherous 10 km stretch of wet and dark road to Bolsena (either before or after we four are separated from each other, and before or after we four are almost hit by a car)...

9/9/17 Saturday Day 37 Radicofani- Acquapendente 24 km The night was disturbed by drummers, sore feet, snorers and sleep-talkers. Up 0600. The 'magnificent' views obscured by mist so thick the path's surface was difficult to navigate. There's one bar at the junction to Acquapendente where our group of pilgrims have a leisurely and jovial breakfast together. Feet feel fine, music on. Pass a group of houses where I play with a little dog who then follows me some distance. I have to re-trace my steps to return him. Then I take a wrong turn along an over-grown path alongside a riverbed. Wasted time and effort as I re-trace my steps. Bad pain in my leg. Not feeling fine, music off. Now I hit the Via Cassio which is extremely dangerous and as all pilgrims agree, should be avoided at all costs. At Acquapendente I am rewarded with a restaurant lunch of pasta and wine with Giancarlo and another new Italian friend. 4 Breakfast 10 Pasta and wine ...